Hello, my name is Jorge and I will be your driver today

On Sunday afternoon we went into town to find a doctor. After all the parents took turns looking over him with well-intentioned but completely unknowing eyes, we decided to take Truman in to get looked at by an actual doctor. That morning he had developed very distinct red dots on his upper thighs and face. When we saw the first one we thought perhaps they were mosquito or spider bites, but when they became more and more numerous, we began to get worried. After he woke up from his afternoon nap, he had rashes in addition to the dots.

All sorts of possible illnesses started popping into our minds, beginning with chicken pox. I have terrible memories of itchy, painful pox all over my body when I was small and I was really hoping that Truman would not be patient #0 for chicken pox in a house of nine children under ten years old. Truman, like Henry and Addi, had been vaccinated for chicken pox, but we weren't sure how reliable those things were. Plus, there had been a case of chicken pox at ICS (the kids' school) earlier in the week. And, if I'm being completely honest, having one or more of my children coming down with chicken pox was going to seriously increase the amount of parental work I was going to have to do on my vacation. More responsibility on vacation es no bueno.

Much of the parental diagnosis was taking place on the patio by the pool. Since we aren't medical professionals, there is no stigma with diagnosing children's illnesses while drinking wine. Estamos en España, after all.  Depending on which mobile network provider we each use, we either got no service at the vacation house, or extremely little service with almost no data. I am one of the lucky/unlucky (depending on your point of view) ones without any service at all. We are so used to being able to look up any fact in an instant that when we cannot we feel a little lost. In this particular case, we needed the location and opening hours of all the hospitals and clinics nearby. Try asking Siri that when there is no internet connection; that lady becomes completely worthless. We also wanted to see pictures of chicken pox eruptions and meningitis spots so we could compare them with the marks on Truman.

Meningitis?

Yep, one of the parents mentioned meningitis and that immediately changed the urgency of the exercise from 'theoretical' to 'concerning'. Apparently in the UK they teach parents to check for meningitis by pressing a cold glass on the eruption and if the red color doesn't leave the skin, then it could be meningitis so rush to a hospital as soon as possible.

We weren't in the UK, but instead in an old rental house in a valley in southern Spain. Instead of a cold glass, we found a room temperature plastic cup. Not optimal conditions for a diagnosis but we tried anyway. After taking turns pressing the cup repeatedly against Truman's spots, we realized that the results to our hi-tech operation were inconclusive and we couldn't trust them either way.

Since the glass parlor trick failed us, we went back to our non existent data coverage. After several failed attempts to use the internet to find a doctor, we found a listing in a local tourism book for a hospital in the neighboring town of Iznájar. Since neither Jess nor I are proficient in Spanish, we took our friend Pascal with us to be our pseudo translator. Pascal is the same guy we took with us to write the contract when we bought Jess's Fiat. He's super handy. :)

The road from our valley into Iznájar takes you around the cliffs that surround Iznájar's signature feature, a large beautiful lake that was created by damning up a nearby river. The lake is absolutely gorgeous and there is no boat or people activity on it. The entire scene creates a very pretty vista as you drive into town.

The lake and bridge going into Iznájar.

The lake and bridge going into Iznájar.

Once we made it into Iznájar proper, we had to navigate the windy small town streets to find the hospital. Even though it was 4:00pm in the afternoon the streets were mostly deserted. After driving to the center of the city we began looking for a place to park. As is common (in my experience) every bit of on-street parking was occupied, so we drove until we found the familiar "P" sign indicating a parking lot. The parking sign had us drive down a steep one-way alley. I am so glad we switched out our large 7 seater van for a smaller minivan. The larger van would not have fit in the alley. Even with the smaller car I only had a 2-3 inches from my side mirrors to the alley walls. The entire time I was driving I was thinking What happens if this street is a dead-end? Driving down a tight alley is one thing, but reversing a quarter mile with no clearance would likely be impossible!

Trying not to scrape the side mirrors off the rental car.

Trying not to scrape the side mirrors off the rental car.

After we managed to park, we hiked back uphill (Truman refused to walk to Jess had to carry him up the hill) we found the hospital down a small side street. We knew it was the hospital because the entire street was filled with a large ambulance parked awkwardly out front. The door to the hospital was locked so we had to ring the bell. A woman came to the door and showed us to the deserted waiting room.

Where are all the patients? We are the only people in the hospital.

Where are all the patients? We are the only people in the hospital.

After a few moments, Jorge came out and we followed him into the examination room. He examined Truman and Pascal did all the translating for us. Jorge was cool as a cucumber throughout the entire examination, and gently nodded after each of Pascal's answers. Finally, he concluded that it wasn't life-threatening meningitis but insect bites, most likely fleas. It turns out that during the morning, Truman had been petting the mangy farm cats that live near the rental house.

Jorge wrote us a prescription for a few different medicines (some sort of steroid cream and a Tylenol equivalent, I think) and then came the moment I was dreading. He asked for our national health cards. Umm, yeah. We don't have those. Due to the fact that dealing with the government bureaucracy is a time and energy suck, we had been putting off registering with the local town hall and medical service which means, you guessed it, we did not have the medical cards to receive medical care. I had assumed that our best option was to try haggle and pay outright, and then find some way to get reimbursed for the doctor visit later.

After Pascal explained the situation to Jorge, he seemed completely uninterested in the details. He explained to Pascal that he's actually the ambulance driver and normally there is a lady that does the administration work.

The ambulance driver.

Oh well, estamos en España.

We asked where the pharmacy was located. He gave us approximate directions and sent us on our way. And yes, the woman locked the hospital door behind us.

The pharmacy was locked and the noise from the street party made using the intercom impossible.

The pharmacy was locked and the noise from the street party made using the intercom impossible.

We make it to the pharmacy and it's locked up tight. There is a sign that says if it's locked, ring the intercom. So we did. Or rather, Pascal did. Did I mention that there was some sort of afternoon street party going on? See those people sitting in the red Coca-Cola chairs behind Jess? They are sitting in the road drinking and eating tapas. Everyone was so loud that it wasn't really possible for Pascal to make himself understood on the intercom. The entire thing was absurdly comical.

A few minutes later, a young man shows up, unlocks the gate and allows us into the pharmacy. We give him our prescription and asks for our national health cards. Hmmm. Pascal launches into the same explanation that he gave Jorge and, equally unperturbed, the young man simply shrugs and rings up the medicine (it cost 17 euros by the way).

For all we know the young man was the local bartender who lost rock-paper-scissor when the foreigners wanted to go to the pharmacy. We didn't even want to ask.

5 Things I Learned During Our Andalusian Easter Vacation

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  1. British people do not speak English, and apparently, neither do Americans. Wellies, jumpers, rucksacks, biscuits, crisps, rubbish and bloody hell. I found myself saying "huh?" quite a bit during our vacation.

  2. I can drink copious amounts of Spanish wine every day. Even after a "rough night" nothing goes better with Spanish sunshine than a nice glass of Spanish red. Is that a problem? I suppose not as long as I live in Spain ...

  3. We miss road tripping. We drove about 2000km around southern Spain over the last week. It's definitely been too long since we've just hopped in the car and drove as a family. Olive has the makings of a good road-tripping dog. She did very well, although not quite as well as Avery use to do.

  4. I'm on a country music kick. I've never been a country music super-fan, but it's very simple music and it's very "American" subject matter, which I'm into at the moment. 

  5. Given the choice, our kids would eat a bag of flour and bag of white sugar every day. I thought after a few years of indoctrination, they could withstand the peer pressure of other kids eating more "standard" foods, but they can't. Apparently, delayed satisfaction is not a naturally occurring trait in children.

World's worst blogger? Probably.

Wow, so much for staying on top of the blogging thing! My plan was to blog a little bit each day, so as not to lose any experiences or memories. Unfortunately, real life kicks in, circumstances overtake us, and the next time you look up it’s been a full month since the last blog post. Yikes.

So much has happened in the last month that I have no chance of covering everything (plus, it’s getting late and I don’t have much time tonight to write), I’ll just hit a few highlights.

Olive and I are developing a love-hate relationship. Mostly love, but I’d be lying if I said she didn’t completely frustrate me at least once per day. She’s taken to refusing to poop or pee when we take her outside, and then moments later she leaves us a stinky love nugget or a pool of pee. Is she just testing us? Probably. Is she winning the battle of wills? Yep. She’s darn cute though.

Last week I was pulled over by the national police (Guardia Civil) for driving with my headset in (I was on a conference call). The entire thing was a bit comedic (in retrospect, not at the time) because they drove in front of me to pull me over. When I wasn’t picking up the hint the policeman in the passenger seat hung out the window and kept motioning for me to pull over. I pulled my dumb-foreigner-who-doesn’t-speak-Spanish routine (which is 100% authentic, by the way) and managed to get a ticket. 100 euro fine on the spot. Double if you pay later. Since it was so darned expensive I think I’ll frame it.

After nearly a month of back-and-forth, Jess and I wired the tuition deposit for the kids to attend the American School of Madrid (Americano Colegio de Madrid). We think it’s a much better school and our kids should fit it in more. About this time last year we tried to enroll the kids there, but it is not considered a valid school option by my company so we chose the kids’ current school (International College of Spain). We’re still trying to figure out how we’re going to pay for it but I’m happy with the choice. The biggest downside (besides the tuition) is that the school is on the opposite side of Madrid from where we live. We will look into what it would take to move but, after having done that in Beijing, we already know what a nightmare it is. Either we move closer to school or we don’t. Either way it’ll be fine.

We’ve got a big Easter week holiday planned for the week after next. It should be awesome! We’re going with three other families. More details later.

Take care.

Poor Olive

 

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Poor Olive. This past week she got spayed. It was the responsible thing to do but that doesn't make it any less painful for her. Initially she was crazy lethargic and wouldn't walk. Jess was in full-on 'mommy mode' trying to make her youngest kid feel better.

Luckily, the vet says her incision is healing 'perfectly' and now she's a spaz and runs around bonking her plastic cone into everything. a few more days and the cone comes off. Yeah!

First time in four years

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I've submitted the paperwork for our United States taxes on time. No late penalties for us this year!

Being an expat has many clear advantages. However, one of the clear disadvantages is the tax situation. The US is the only country (that I know of at least) that requires you to declare and pay taxes on money earned outside the country. I don't mind paying taxes (our tax rates are still some of the lowest in the world), but it's the hassle and the time needed to make it all happen, that bugs me the most. Luckily we have an accounting company helping us or I would still be working on our 2010 taxes!

And paying your taxes doesn't have to be so stressful and labor intensive. Since 2004, Swedes have been able to pay their Swedish taxes via SMS from their mobile phones. Their entire system is that streamlined...

That's Gross

The other night I was in our bathroom getting ready for bed. For whatever reason, Truman was in there with me and, as kids do, was watching me without me realizing it. I was flossing my teeth when he surprised me with a question.

"Is that hair? he asked, referring to my dental floss.

"No" I chuckled, "it's dental floss."

"Eww! That's gross!"

Apparently 35 year olds and 4 year olds have different ideas about what is gross.

Morocco - Last Day

[Note: This is one of those half-written blog posts that I never got around to publishing. In this case, from October 2013.] When you travel you are like a dry sponge. As you take in the new sights, sounds, and experiences of your destination, you are slowly wetting that sponge. Different people have different size sponges, but eventually one of two things happens:

  1. Your sponge saturates and you need to return home; back to "normal", or
  2. You fall in love with the new place and wind up staying.

Rest assured that the Cooper family will not be moving to Marrakech permanently.

Right now, our sponge is saturated; filled full with Moroccan experiences and it's time to return home to wring it out. The tide has turned and the charm and excitement of many of the new things have worn off and in their place is a longing for our own beds, our own food, and a little routine boredom. Sounds nice, right?

I was discussing with Jess that I think a perfectly planned vacation is when you are ready to go home on your last day. If you want to go home on your first day, that's no good, if you want to stay on your last day, and you can't imagine going back home, that's no good either. When you've vacationed, learned a few things and relaxed some, and are ready to get back to your normal life, that's a vacation well planned!

Well done Jess. Without you, I'd probably never go anywhere, due to the unbelievable hassle of the planning.

Morocco - Sneaky Bacteria

[Note: This is one of those half-written blog posts that I never got around to publishing. In this case, from October 2013.] We don't talk often about things like upset stomachs, diarrhea, fever and vomiting. I sounds like the list of symptoms on a medicine box, and frankly, doesn't make for very exciting reading.

On Tuesday, after a few days in Marrakesh, I started having an upset stomach. This is not unusual for me when I eat things that I'm not use to, so I chalked it up to too many carbs and some low quality grub. However, by Wednesday morning I needed to skip breakfast because of the cramping. Simply excellent. I practice quite safe travel hygiene, especially around food, but in the end I got it just the same.

Jess followed me down the path to ruin about 36 hours later. This wasn't like Thailand when I made a bad decision about some Chinese food and that night wound up puking and laying on the bathroom floor in a fevered sweat. No, Morocco was more gentle to us, and we only had to endure stomach cramps, fatigue and constant diarrhea. It definitely could've hit us worse. In this case it slowed us down, made us a little grumpy, and took some of the charm out of our Moroccan experience.

Like crime scene investigators, Jess and I tried to figure out how we got sick and the kids didn't (thankfully). In the end, we zeroed in on the coffee that we were drinking by the carafe-full in the Riad. It wasn't espresso, but Moroccan coffee, and I'm pretty sure they used tap water.

Those bacteria are so sneaky.

"No, the Queen will not see you now ..."

So, the queen is a big deal. I implicitly knew that, but it's hard to understand until you start wandering around Windsor (the town built around Windsor Castle). Most things are about the queen. Or the royal family. Or people that used to be queen, or the royal family. I find it incredibly confusing trying to keep everyone and every title straight, but I can see how people get obsessed about it.

Today Yvette drove us to Windsor Castle. The Queen was there at the time (you can tell because the royal flag is flying over the castle if she's in residence). We tried to see her but apparently we weren't on the invite list. Go figure.

The castle itself is incredibly old and quite amazing. We saw St. George's Chapel inside the castle. The Chapel is architecturally amazing and extremely ornate.

We all received headsets to feed us information as we walked through the open parts of the castle. Truman hung in there for several hours before he got bored and just wanted to leave. He spent more than a little while laying on the red carpet of the inside of the castle. :)

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After we finished the castle, we needed to change our plans around to accommodate the kids' interest and energy levels. Instead of driving to the zoo, we walked across the street to an old British pub (across the street from the castle) and enjoyed a nice pint of ale and some traditional British food.

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Respect the Espresso Machine

So, Yvette and Allen have a full coffee shop in their kitchen. It's like a bed and breakfast combined with a Starbucks. They have an industrial grade espresso machine from Italy, locally sourced freshly rusted beans, a grinder, grounds box, and a large assortment of syrups for flavored lattes. Allen gave me a crash course before he left for Houston. Remember, two 1 oz shots in less than 30 seconds or you're doing it wrong. Respect the espresso machine.

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London!

We made it to London! Taking off on Friday night after a long week might not have been the best decision, but we did it anyway to maximize our time in London. Truman, who is still trying to adjust to full days at school (meaning no nap), hit his limit right around the check-in line at the airport. Not so fun, but at least the flight from Madrid to London was short (under two hours!).

Allen picked us up at Gatwick, and we grabbed a few supplies before leaving the airport (diapers, Costa coffee, and snacks) for the ride to Allen and Yvette's house in Ascot. We were in bed by 2:00am and slept like logs.

I've ridden in right-hand drive cars before but that odd feeling never seems to go away. And by 'odd' I mean 'going to hit something at any moment' feeling. Allen says it takes a few months before it feels normal.

We kept our ambitions for Saturday pretty low we walked into Ascot for lunch, played on the trampoline and pool, and enjoyed some wine with dinner. All-in-all, we're saving up energy for some of our bigger London excursions later on. :)

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